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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About Snailman

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    I was born with 10. I intend to die with10
  1. If I'm approached by someone who starts a conversation with "how much would it cost for you to make me a..." my answer is "more than you want to spend". It usually ends the conversation. My wife and family are the only clients I'm interested in having.
  2. I make plenty of mistakes (learning opportunities). I kind of like it when it happens. It forces me to try to be creative, which I don't get to do in my day to day.
  3. Wiping on water based poly

    Neither did I . There were a few tense moments when I started the application. Thanks for the compliments. I hadn't used water based dye before this project. I really liked the application, and it didn't seem to muddy the grain. I used bulls eye sanding sealer that had an amber tone to it. I was concerned my wife wouldn't like the amber tone, but she says she likes it (and I'm going with that!) My only other experience with water born finish was sealing the inside of a pantry I built using minwax polycryllic. I wasn't overly impressed with that application (seemed to raise the grain considerably), but it was the inside of a pantry with rolling shelves, so no one really sees or feels the inside of that carcass. I'll definitely try this again, although, I may make up my own spit coat with blonde shellac next time.
  4. Wiping on water based poly

    Finally finished (pun intended). Thanks for the finishing advice.
  5. Wiping on water based poly

    Thanks for the input guys. I'm using Varathane Semi Gloss. I opted to try wiping straight out of the can, using an old t-shirt. My first impression was 'that was a mistake'. I found it difficult to maintain an even coat as I went. Dripping wasn't an issue. The usual heavy accumulation in corners was a little heavier than I've gotten with oil based poly. For the 2nd coat, I was going to take Gene's suggestion and switch to a painting pad, but then I thought, why change the technique before I tried wiping a 2nd coat. So this time, I took another piece of old t-shirt, and dampened it slightly with water before applying. Much better control on keeping the coat even. I don't know it that was from the damp shirt, or just the way the Varathane responds to itself, but I'm satisfied with the result (and more importantly SWMBO is happy). I'll post a couple of pics once I've got it all re-assembled. Thanks again. Paul
  6. I tried to search this here, and maybe (probably) missed it. Can water based poly be wiped on? I've got to move my armoire project into the house (temps got too low to continue working in the garage) so I want to keep smell and cure time down. Thanks in advance. Paul
  7. Raising the grain question

    +1 on what's been said. I'm working on a piece for my wife now, and am using water based dye. I did a test board, raising the grain 1st, not raising the grain, and applying a 2nd dye coat sanding between coats, and applying a 2nd coat, not sanding between coats, and doing a sanding after the 2nd coat. I found I the results to be pretty close across the board, although, not sanding till the end seemed to take off additional color. I opted for the no 'pre-raise' approach, applied the 1st dye coat, sanded and applied the 2nd dye coat. In the morning, I plan on doing a quick light sanding to knock down the grain, apply a spit coat of shellac, and then a water born topcoat. I'll post pictures once done. So far, I'm really happy with the results from the water born dye.
  8. What to do with sawdust

    I forgot to add, that what I did find effective, was to mix the shavings with paraffin wax and made fire starters. I melted a couple pounds of wax at a time in an old electric dutch oven, and added enough shavings to get them moist. I used a muffin tin for a form, and bought the paraffin in 10 lbs blocks online. Those worked real well.
  9. What to do with sawdust

    I tried this a couple years ago. It is a lot of work. I tried it with paper from my shredder, and planer shavings. I made a press out of scrap schedule 40 pvc with holes drilled into it, and used a 6 ton bottle jack I had on hand. I made pucks to get them to dry faster. They all fell apart as they dried. My 2nd batch, I added some all purpose flour as a binding agent. They stayed together, and when I lit them up, they smoldered for about 15 minutes each. I concluded it wasn't worth the effort. I like the above solution. I may have to try that in my wood stove this winter. Leaving it in the paper bags/boxes looks like a reasonable solution.
  10. Kreg Accu-Cut

    My thought exactly. A few years ago, I made a 4' long one out of some scrap plywood I had. Works well enough to break down to rough size with final cut done on the table saw. I'm fortunate that I have 8' on both side of my saw and a 36" rip capacity. I've been able to rip my 4x8 sheet goods lengthwise that way. But if the need arises to go portable, I think I'd buy a sheet of 3/8 ply and make a couple.
  11. Back to the beginning, old (er) school

    Fred, for about 10 years I had both a propane fired grill and charcoal. I had been a diehard propane griller for years, and then bought a charcoal grill to 'play'. The more I cooked on charcoal, the less and less I cooked on propane. Finally, about 2 years ago, I had to replace my charcoal grill (a Lowes special) and got a weber and haven't looked back. The big advantage I found with the weber versus the Lowes special, is you can regulate the heat a LOT better in the weber. And when you're done, you close the top vent to snuff out the coals. I've found about a 50% yield on left over coals, versus total burn with the old charcoal grill. I always thought the time to heat a charcoal grill was a waste of time, but I find that while the grill is heating, I'm getting the meal ready. And I've got 2 chimneys. My weber is about 22" in diameter, and the 2 chimneys give me a REALLY hot coal bed. I've never used lighter fluid And I only burn lump charcoal. Thanks for the info on cooking the ribs. I want to smoke a brisket, but haven't had the time, or weather lately, to do one. BTW, I live in New England, and cook on my grill year round. I'll dig the sucker out after a snow storm. Enjoy, Paul
  12. Bear assistant

    Wow! I like your solution to the balance issue.
  13. Beautiful work Stick. Really clever solution for the WOTH. I wish I had thought of it when I was building my cabinets. But I really don't think a 3 1/2" step would have helped much. My wife's about 5'2". I'm 6'1". My ceiling is 8 1/2'. We both rely on a cheap IKEA step stool to reach the top shelves. (I know, I know, a step stool is on my 'to do' list) :-)
  14. Bathroom remodel - best idea?

    First, Allen, WOW! I really like your design. I'm planning a bathroom remodel at some point and want to do a vessel sink, but I bought and Eastlake style vanity and mirror I plan on reviving to use as the base. Second, Fred, WOW! I remodeled my kitchen a few years back and built my own cabinets, but didn't follow Norm's plan. I basically followed the dimensions of the existing cabinets, and where I had to build them where none existed, I just took measurements and went from there. As you can tell from the photos, I'm a huge fan of inset door and drawers. I've since added baseboard molding to the bottom of the drawer units to match the rest of the room. (I'm not the best photographer) Third, when I redid my half bath, I didn't have enough wall space to 'comfortably' hang a paper dispenser, so I took on my 1st (and only to date) lathe project. I made it out of some scrap 2X douglas fir I had on hand. I glued up a 3x3 blank for the center post, cut the feet out of 2X stock. Turned the uprights out of 2x2 material, and used a mahogany plug to hide the screw hole. Gets the job done.
  15. Minwax Polyshades and Wood Finish

    I thought I'd chime in here. I've used Polyshades a couple of times, and I admit, there are better options, but I think I had good results in my two uses. In one instance, I finished a cabinet out of reclaimed pine, and the second was when I rebuilt my stairs in my house. In both instances, I thinned it slightly, and used it as a wipe on application. After I reached the desired color, I top coated with a couple of coats of satin polyurethane. I was pleased with the results. I'm not the best photographer, so the color on the stairs looks a lot different in the two photos. I think possibly because on the front on photo, I was standing outside shooting the photo thru my open front door. My point is, if you treat it right, Polyshades will work well. Granted, I built a small cabinet a few years later to match up with the bath cabinet, and I used garnet shellac with 2 coats of P&L38 as a topcoat, and got a real close color match. The only difference was the polyshades even in satin finish, finished with more luster than the P&L38. And I did the stairs about 9 years ago. The finish is wearing like polyurethane!

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