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Michael Thuman

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About Michael Thuman

  • Rank
    Apprentice

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  • First Name
    Michael
  • My Location
    Laporte Indiana
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Intermediate
  1. three way joint?

    For the M&T proposal please but a ledge on the post that can carry the load of the member putting all the load thru the Tenon in shear is not advised. Your original idea has plenty of support and the screws should only be holding it together. They may carry some shear but the wood to wood contact will quickly take over that load. Go with what your originally concieved. That said it could be simpler it all depends on the weight you are going to support and where it's center of gravity is.
  2. Warm Brown on Douglas Fir

    All what I found out is to get a consistent color I should have put down a wash coat (1 lb cut) of shellac before I dye. I still owe you pictures but here is the new recipie that I will try. 1. Sand everything to 220. (I over sanded to 400) 2. Vacum 3. Apply 1 lbs cut of clear shellac lightly wet the wood. (Did not do this and got blotches) 4. Sand to with 350 to expose some of the wood fibers but seal the less dense early wood. 5. Dye with the water based dye. (alternate spray the dye) 6. Spray shellac to not disturb the dye. (First doors clearly show more blotching and lighter areas because I brushed on the shellac and it pulled out some of the dye) 7. Apply 2 coats of amber shellac 2 lb cut. 8. Sand to 400 9. Apply a water based poly because these purchased doors will cover a laundry room and the chemicals and water vapor in there will kill the shellac.
  3. Need some advice

    Fred that white pine should be water proofed or use treated pine. At the foot it looks like it is below grade. What is the foot anchored too? I normally use a stringer across the bottom the holds everything square.
  4. to Spray or brush

    Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
  5. Sound advice also pre finish keeps your freshly milled wood stable in case you are not assembling in the same day.
  6. Warm Brown on Douglas Fir

    Thanks all as it is a closed grain wood we will just dye it then seal it. I will send pictures of my test.
  7. Warm Brown on Douglas Fir

    Hi all we purchased some barn doors made from douglas fir. We want to dye/stain to a warm brown with black grain. I figure dye warm brown then seal with 1 lbs cut of blond shellac then stain with a black/very dark brown stain. We want to stop blotching. Have a consistent brown background and black grian similiar to gunstock on oak. We need your help.
  8. Finishing the Finish Oct 26, 2017

    All I would add is the wax must be silacone free. Great article thanks.
  9. corner cabinet layout

    I used to live in old houses and those were always built in. They joined them wth a Dado in the sides and the shelves were fixed. Then the face frame went on and hid the dadoes just like the pictures above. They were also 90% painted to match the trim. The only woodgraine one I ever saw was bassword with birch plywood shelves and had the face of the shelve covered up with some thin veneer so when the door was open you thought it was solid. Also because the houses were rarely plumb nor square the back was cut off like your plan and the sides had a trim molding the actual cabinet was 1/4" away from the walls. OH also becuase of the size and strength of the ply the ply was only 3/8" T. Unless you are storing weights in there 3/8" should work fine but I'd probably go with 1/2" or 3/4" given todays reduced strength. I had to disamble several to refinish them .
  10. Finally, the Cradle is Finished

    Thanks for the detials the last thing you did with pledge will put silacone into the finish and if you ever need to refinsih please see other threads on silacone contamation.
  11. Loose fill, cellulose versus fiberglass

    The Spray foam shrinks after a few years the folks at this old house no longer use it.
  12. Loose fill, cellulose versus fiberglass

    Foam has to be very tightly and perfectly sealed. It is NOT for ceilings (normally) now for walls the challenge is the where do you get 3 1/2 foam to fill the cavaties between the framing. You cannot so you have to put in 2" then tape it off (Seal it) then 1 1/2" and again tape it off (seal it). Any voids must be filled with closed cell expanding foam and then sawed to the same thickness. Foam has the other great property it is rigid so when it backs up drywall it stops most impacts from breaking the drywall.
  13. Finally, the Cradle is Finished

    Can you please share your awesome finish schedule to bring out the beatuy and get a consistent color.
  14. Loose fill, cellulose versus fiberglass

    Glad you installed the foam baffles to keep the cold air from the eaves comming in to purge the hot air trapped under the roof. That extends the life of the roof considerably and decreases the heat load of the conditioned space below. Please make sure you have a ridge vent. As for insulation choice which has a greater R value per inch of blown in insulation? Do you have enought height in the attic to have either blown in and still get to R30? Also be aware that at extreme cold like -20 F the fiberglass actually becomes a conductor not and insulator. I do not know where you live but if you can get very cold I go with Celose then reblow it in after 5 years. As for humidity the fiberglass is superior to celouse.
  15. Help!! Facia Board Angles

    This is a compound cut. Take the old board lay it on the fence along it longest edge. Mark the angle either by alligning the saw to the cut on the board in the verticle plane or use the angle finder to find the angle. Then Tilt the saw blade to mimic the rake of the cut along the short edge. Always make sure the blade us cutting a peice of wood 90 degrees or greater you do not want to trap a small peice of wood between what you are cutting and the blade.

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