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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About Danl

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    USA, Missouri
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  1. Yikes!

    Congratulations! Your one of the best. Danl
  2. Dadio, I thought about adding a 1" riser but then the swivel mechanism may be more visible and it is not appealing to look at. I still thinking of a design change to help hide the mechanism. I want to use a different chair glide which will be not as high, so I have to raise the seat height more than 1". I believe I will remake the legs and make them longer. Another mock-up and prototype of the base assemble maybe on order. I did use Mario's method for scooping the seat but I made significant changes. Mario's follower is a length which makes his pommel approx. 1/2 the distance of his seat blank. I made mine so that it was adjustable from 9" down to 5". My final length is 5". Also, I believe Mario's only scoops 1/4". My seat blank starts with 5/16" and goes to 9/16". I think I will make the production seats using 5/16" to 1/2". Thank you for the input. Stick & Gene, thank you for the help. I'm still scratching my head to get answers. Appreciate it. Cal, Yes we have been using the prototype stool. My said that she wanted it taller, knowing that it would make it harder for her to get on it. The back support will still clear the counter top with the added height without a design change to the back support braces. Thanks HandyDan, thanks Danl
  3. The following pic shows a mock-up of the bridle joint. The mock-up purposely only uses a lap joint and is held with screws but the screw location is where I thought I may add the dowels. The lower stretcher is only 1" x 1-1/2". Not much material to make a tenon. Perhaps I could make a tenon and add a dowel. Then the dowels would complement each other. I believe using a tenon joint at the upper support rail would be straight forward. The support rail is 1-1/2" x 3". Plenty of matl thickness for a tenon. Only issue is that I have never made a M&T joint. This could be a 1st. Danl
  4. After the kitchen remodeling was completed 9/2017, my wife was wanting new bar stools. She had a few design specifications: 1) The back of the stool had to fit under the overhang of the counter top (34-1/2”max back support height). 2) The distance between the front of the stool and the top of the foot support had to be a comfortable distance (16-1/2” max). 3) The distance between the back support and the front of the seat had to be a comfortable distance. 4) The stool had to swivel and return back to the original position when not occupied. Upon a thorough search of the internet and my ~25 year collection of Wood and Woodsmith magazines I could not find an article for a wooden swivel bar stool. The following inspired my own design: 1) Swivel bar stool plan from Woodcraft (plan was for a 30” seat height, padded cushion, and did not have design appeal) 2) Bar stool project from Wood magazine (plan was for a non-swivel stool) 3) Library chair designed by Tom Mc Laughlin. 4) Stool seat power carving by Mario Rodriguez. The prototype stool is made from 4/4 poplar wood with no finish. The production stools will be made from cherry wood and the finish schedule will be the same as used for the kitchen cabinets. The initial plan is to make two stools. Now the prototype stool is complete, minus finish. My wife would like the seat to be 1” higher from the floor, have the lower stretchers raised 1”, and to have the legs cut with a compound angle so that there is no gap at the top of leg with the swivel mounting board. I may want to inlay copper metal into the lower foot support. The intent with the inlay metal is to provide a wear plate/bar which should help with the wear of the lower horizontal supports due to the abrasion from shoes. I would like your input into the following: 1) The back support braces are made with a bridle joint. Do I need to add dowels to this joint? If I need to add dowels, how do I do it and have “face grain” showing instead of “end grain”? Each tang is only 3/8” wide. 2) The prototype utilizes pocket screws to secure the legs to the upper horizontal rail. Should I change the joints to loose tendon joints? 3) The lower stretchers use 2-1/2” construction screws to attach the legs to the stretchers. Is this a good method or should I use a different joint? If so, what? 4) I would appreciate your comments before I start the fabrication of the production stools. Thanks Danl
  5. Indian is in the frame

    Looks great Jesse! Danl
  6. 56th today!!

    Congrats Jesse! I told my boys to marry a fine lady who can cook. You can only live on love for about 3 days. Danl
  7. Jesse, No good deed goes unpunished. Hang in there. Danl
  8. That last clock didn't do me in, so

    Looking good, Jesse. Danl
  9. Spraying shellac?

    I have sprayed Bullseye shellac with a HVLP with success. I used a 1:1 ratio with DNA. Scuff sanded between coats. This is my finish schedule for sealing/finishing birch ply drawers. Danl
  10. Three crosses trivet

    You have a GREAT trivet. I like it. Danl
  11. Christmas Shopping....Done

    Absolutely gorgeous! Great workmanship. Danl
  12. Finally broke down and ordered

    Sounds like your Christmas list has been made. Danl
  13. Finally broke down and ordered

    just add more water to the soup. Sorry to hear of all of your troubles. Danl
  14. Shadow Box Humidor

    Very nicely designed and fabricated. I enjoy seeing your woodworking. Danl
  15. Shop workbench for my son

    Smallpatch, tightening the nut took a little shade tree ingenuity. I could only turn the bolt, not the nut. I held the nut in a box end wrench with painter's tape. Then turned the bolt until the bolt fully engaged the nut. Then I had to pull the bolt so that I could remove the wrench from the hole. I then inserted a #4 flat blade screw driver into the hole and wedged it against the inner hole and one of the flats on the nut. This took a little time but was doable. A better approach would be to have drilled the counter bore hole a little deeper and then use a bolt which would be 1/2" shorter. This would of allowed me to use the box end wrench until the nut was tight and still remove it from the hole. Next summer drive your RV North and we can load one up to haul back South. This will give you a chance to get out of the heat. Danl

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