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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Danl

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  • Content count

    95
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Danl

  • Rank
    Gopher

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Daniel
  • My Location
    USA, Missouri
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Beginner
  1. Kitchen Back splash is installed

    Thank you for your kind words. It was a task which took days, but we are pleased. thanks again. Danl
  2. My wife worked hard sorting through the boxes of porcelain tiles, from HD, so that we only used the “pretty” tiles. I wanted to have a “mirror image” corner and we did not want to have vertical gap lines near each other between the 2nd row and the decorative tiles. She also wanted some of the tiles rotated 45 deg. We used approx. 132 6” x 6” tiles and I had to cut all but 16 of them. Used 1/16 spacers. Yea it is complete! My wife is happy, so I am happy. Danl It
  3. Ice Sculptures

    My wife and I visited an ice sculpture contest yesterday. The tools used where most interesting. Perhaps Jesse could put some diesel fuel in his motor home, head North and compete next year. Danl
  4. Kitchen Back Splash

    the tile are Marazzie Travisano Collection glazed porcelain tile 5-13/16 x 5-13/16 x 5/16 thick https://www.homedepot.com/p/MARAZZI-Travisano-Trevi-6-in-x-6-in-Porcelain-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-10-12-sq-ft-case-ULNJ/205141226
  5. Wife Died

    My sincere condolences, Jim. You are in my prayers. Danl
  6. Kitchen Back Splash

    My wife has finally found tile for the kitchen back splash which she believes she can live with. She did not want subway tile nor glass mosaic. That accounts for 98% of what is on out there for sale. My wife was wanting to have a 1/16 grout gap between the tile. It is my understanding that matching caulk is used between the tile and the counter top and between the tile and the wooden refrigerator panel. What gap is commonly used in these locations when 1/16 gap is between the tiles? I appreciate your help. Thanks in advance. Danl
  7. clocks with curls

    Jesse, Instead of moving the light switches you may want to display your art in a gallery. Looks GREAT! Danl
  8. Yikes!

    Congratulations! Your one of the best. Danl
  9. Dadio, I thought about adding a 1" riser but then the swivel mechanism may be more visible and it is not appealing to look at. I still thinking of a design change to help hide the mechanism. I want to use a different chair glide which will be not as high, so I have to raise the seat height more than 1". I believe I will remake the legs and make them longer. Another mock-up and prototype of the base assemble maybe on order. I did use Mario's method for scooping the seat but I made significant changes. Mario's follower is a length which makes his pommel approx. 1/2 the distance of his seat blank. I made mine so that it was adjustable from 9" down to 5". My final length is 5". Also, I believe Mario's only scoops 1/4". My seat blank starts with 5/16" and goes to 9/16". I think I will make the production seats using 5/16" to 1/2". Thank you for the input. Stick & Gene, thank you for the help. I'm still scratching my head to get answers. Appreciate it. Cal, Yes we have been using the prototype stool. My said that she wanted it taller, knowing that it would make it harder for her to get on it. The back support will still clear the counter top with the added height without a design change to the back support braces. Thanks HandyDan, thanks Danl
  10. The following pic shows a mock-up of the bridle joint. The mock-up purposely only uses a lap joint and is held with screws but the screw location is where I thought I may add the dowels. The lower stretcher is only 1" x 1-1/2". Not much material to make a tenon. Perhaps I could make a tenon and add a dowel. Then the dowels would complement each other. I believe using a tenon joint at the upper support rail would be straight forward. The support rail is 1-1/2" x 3". Plenty of matl thickness for a tenon. Only issue is that I have never made a M&T joint. This could be a 1st. Danl
  11. After the kitchen remodeling was completed 9/2017, my wife was wanting new bar stools. She had a few design specifications: 1) The back of the stool had to fit under the overhang of the counter top (34-1/2”max back support height). 2) The distance between the front of the stool and the top of the foot support had to be a comfortable distance (16-1/2” max). 3) The distance between the back support and the front of the seat had to be a comfortable distance. 4) The stool had to swivel and return back to the original position when not occupied. Upon a thorough search of the internet and my ~25 year collection of Wood and Woodsmith magazines I could not find an article for a wooden swivel bar stool. The following inspired my own design: 1) Swivel bar stool plan from Woodcraft (plan was for a 30” seat height, padded cushion, and did not have design appeal) 2) Bar stool project from Wood magazine (plan was for a non-swivel stool) 3) Library chair designed by Tom Mc Laughlin. 4) Stool seat power carving by Mario Rodriguez. The prototype stool is made from 4/4 poplar wood with no finish. The production stools will be made from cherry wood and the finish schedule will be the same as used for the kitchen cabinets. The initial plan is to make two stools. Now the prototype stool is complete, minus finish. My wife would like the seat to be 1” higher from the floor, have the lower stretchers raised 1”, and to have the legs cut with a compound angle so that there is no gap at the top of leg with the swivel mounting board. I may want to inlay copper metal into the lower foot support. The intent with the inlay metal is to provide a wear plate/bar which should help with the wear of the lower horizontal supports due to the abrasion from shoes. I would like your input into the following: 1) The back support braces are made with a bridle joint. Do I need to add dowels to this joint? If I need to add dowels, how do I do it and have “face grain” showing instead of “end grain”? Each tang is only 3/8” wide. 2) The prototype utilizes pocket screws to secure the legs to the upper horizontal rail. Should I change the joints to loose tendon joints? 3) The lower stretchers use 2-1/2” construction screws to attach the legs to the stretchers. Is this a good method or should I use a different joint? If so, what? 4) I would appreciate your comments before I start the fabrication of the production stools. Thanks Danl
  12. Indian is in the frame

    Looks great Jesse! Danl
  13. 56th today!!

    Congrats Jesse! I told my boys to marry a fine lady who can cook. You can only live on love for about 3 days. Danl
  14. Jesse, No good deed goes unpunished. Hang in there. Danl
  15. That last clock didn't do me in, so

    Looking good, Jesse. Danl

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