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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

kmealy

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About kmealy

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  • First Name
    Keith
  • My Location
    Warren County,OH (30 mi NE of Cincinnati)
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Advanced
  • Favorite Quote
    "There is hardly anything in this world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and those people who consider price only, are this man's lawful prey." John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

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  1. Well, Sears is sucking again. Trying to look up a saw on their web site. Been trying to load for 20 minutes. "You can't sell off the back of an empty cart." -- Retailing 101.
  2. vintage tools!

    I have worked with a lot of people from England, Wales, Scotland, Australia and New Zealand. (and a few from Canada, Hong Kong, South Africa, Ireland, and English-speakers from Norway, Germany, Russia, Kentucky, and Poland)
  3. vintage tools!

    Greetings from across the pond. From your choice of a few words, I can tell where you are from. "Boot sale", "Crisps", "Knackered"
  4. Cabot Australian Timber Oil

    I've sent an e-mail to one of my technical contacts at Valspar to see if I can get any more information on this for our education. Will let you know what I hear.
  5. Cabot Australian Timber Oil

    I am not sure what's in it. The first place I normally look to break through the blah-blah on the label is the SDS (Safety Data Sheet, nee MSDS Material Safety Data Sheet). It's supposed to list the hazardous ingredients. All they show for this one is the thinners and "trade secret." I saw this once at a wood show and asked what was in it and the rep gave me a bunch of useless blah-blah, too. I left in disgust. It's my impression the more they hide behind the "trade secret" the more it's just common ingredients. Same issue with a lot of "Howard's" products. I inquired once to them if one of their products was like a "Danish Oil." Their response was, "Oh, No, it's 100% American oil." Blah-blah. Some thinners, some alcohol, and some mineral oil, probably. Blah-blah. One secret to unlocking the SDS is to use the CAS (Chemical Abstracts Service) number, that is unique for a product that can have multiple common or trade names. This product is 50-70% CAS 64742-47-8 (deodorized kerosene, hydrotreated light petroleum distillates, mineral turpentine, blah-blah) Frustrating that you cannot determine what the chemistry is so you can know when and how to use it. One way I use to try to at least get it in the right family is to put a puddle on something non-porous (glass, can lid, etc.) Let it cure. If it's hard and smooth, it's a varnish. If it's soft and wrinkly, it's an oil. If it's hard in the center and wrinkly around the edges, it's an oil-varnish blend. The more wrinkly, the higher percentage oil vs. varnish.
  6. Well, I didn't see it all. Was at the repair shop (also a big seller of Makita in town) and they had a cordless Makita K-cup coffee maker. The lady at the counter said they were very popular. I guess my thermos is out of date. https://www.amazon.com/Makita-DCM500Z-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Coffee/dp/B010FZDG82
  7. Do you know the states

    nailed it, though I had to think about Nebraska some
  8. Moaners, Groaners and other dribble... V.2

    On the Thanksgiving tree at church:
  9. Old Age

  10. If you like squirrels......

    Well, they chewed up the wires in my truck, shorted out the computer so it needed a new sensors, new computer and new programming, $2000 later. This is in addition to the damage they caused to the house. Got no use for them at all. Did I say FORMER neighbor? Moved away from that nut job (no pun intended).
  11. The hardest wood in North America

    around the eastern midwest, hop hornbeam is known as "iron wood" Ironwood is not a very specific name as it tends to be used for the hardest wood in region. Janka Hardness: 1,860 lbf (8,270 N). Dogwood is pretty tough, too Janka Hardness: 2,150 lbf (9,560 N) A friend from Kansas calls osage orange (aka bois d'ark, bodark) as "harder than the hubs of Hades" Janka Hardness: 2,620 lbf (11,640 N)
  12. Going to the store today, they had two cans of the finish I wanted. I know this product has a limited shelf life and I would span it over the next two or three large projects, so I wanted to make sure it was still fresh, and get the fresher one. At first, I felt little guilty digging out the fresher one. Then I rationalized: It's not cheating in games of chance if you know the odds and it's not cheating in the store if you know shelf life and to look for date of manufacture. It helps to go to a store that moves a lot of that particular product so you don't get one that's been sitting on the shelf for five years. It may depend upon the clientele more than the store chain. One big box or paint store might move a lot of a particular product while another version of the same store 50 miles away may not have any customers that buy it. Sometimes the dates are obvious. Sometimes they are encoded. Sometimes, they tell you the shelf life. Sometimes, they don't. A little knowledge here is your friend. Shellac and waterborne finishes have the shorter shelf life. Shellac starts a gradual degradation process called esterification. As it goes on, shellac will fail to cure to a hard finish. If you are mixing your own, try to just make enough for your current project or two. For home-brew, I generally start checking at about six months and really worry after about a year. I test before use by putting using some on scrap. If it's not cured in 30 minutes or so, it's past its prime. For SealCoat, whatever solvent mix they are using it generally lasts 3 years or more. Waterborne finishes are generally good for a year, but I've used them beyond that with success. Oil-based finishes are usually good for a long time, but in a partial can, they can start to cure and gel. Lacquer is good for a long time. Even glue has a shelf life.But they say that as long as it's not curdled, it's OK. Shelf life can be dependent upon storage, too. Store finishes in a hot garage all summer and they'll age faster. Store waterborne finish or glue in a freezing garage all winter and they're toast. My philosophy is that finish (and glue), when you consider wood, hardware, and time, is one of the cheapest parts of the project. And to recover from a failed finish (or glue) is a lot of work. It's not worth being frugal cheap here. When in doubt, throw it out. Or buy smaller cans to begin with. A gallon may only be two or three times as much as a quart, but if you throw 3/4 of it out, it's not a deal. Here are some more or less obvious manufacture dates . And some less helpful ones Sometimes the company web site will tell you how to decode, or someone else has figured it out. Google before you buy. More reading http://www.rockler.com/how-to/determine-wood-finish-varnish-oils-expired-extend-dispose/ https://ardec.ca/en/blog/11/how-to-prevent-finishing-product-leftovers-from-drying-skinning-or-hardenin Label decoding https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/user-unfriendly-zinsser-bulls-eye-shellac https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/minwax-date-codes-543580-.htm Shelf life of common finishes http://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/02/07/all-finishes-have-a-shelf-life https://books.google.com/books?id=PRhOBQAAQBAJ&pg=PT1456&lpg=PT1456&dq=jewitt+shelf+life+finishes&source=bl&ots=HkMRmQenkY&sig=2TDrijvok3-qu20hBRWY_1D7-7g&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiPxtWe9P3XAhUB1CYKHRUOACwQ6AEINTAC#v=onepage&q=jewitt shelf life finishes&f=false Titebond date shelf life and date codes (from their FAQ) What does the term "shelf life" mean in regard to Titebond Wood Glues? "Shelf life" is a conservative estimate of the minimum time period that we would expect a given product to remain usable, when stored as directed. This concept might also be called "useable service life" or "storage life," and it necessarily refers to both the physical handling properties and the ability of the product to perform properly. When used in reference to wood glues, reaching the stated shelf life does not mean that a product will "expire" or become unusable. Instead, we view the stated shelf life of most of our glues merely as a guideline to avoid potential aging concerns. In reality, as long as products like Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III remain fluid, without a drastic change in appearance, they will continue to perform as intended. What is the shelf life of Titebond Wood Glues? Our literature states the shelf life of a majority of our wood glues as two years. Titebond Polyurethane Glue has a one-year shelf life in an unopened container, but is useable as long as the glue remains fluid. Polyurethanes, however, are designed to react when exposed to moisture. Sometimes, they begin to cure, and solidify, after the bottle has been opened. Most of our yellow and white glues, including Titebond Original and Titebond II, remain usable beyond two years. Should Titebond Original become thick and stringy, or Titebond II turn into an orange-colored gel, these changes signify that the glue is no longer usable. The minimum shelf life of Titebond III is stated as one two years. When stored appropriately at room temperature, Titebond III is expected to last beyond its stated shelf life. If thickened, shake vigorously by firmly tapping bottle on a hard surface until product is restored to original form. For a complete list of Titebond Adhesive shelf life click http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/LiteraturePDFs/ff876_ShelfLife.sflb.ashx. How Do I Read The Lot Numbers? Our current lot numbering system is a 10 digit code. The format is: aymmddbat#. The "a" stands for Made in the U.S.A. The "y" is the last digit of the year of manufacture. Digits "mm" represent the month, and "dd" represent the day of the month. The final four digits represent the batch number used for quality control purposes. Therefore, a product with the lot number A104270023 was manufactured on April 27, 2011.
  13. door types

    Interesting article / excerpt on cabinet door options https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/12/08/door-types/#respond

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