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Kenny Tarmack

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About Kenny Tarmack

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  • Birthday 03/20/1965

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  • My skill level is
    You got me, you figure it out!
  1. Birthday Greetings to...

    Thanks for the thoughts guys and gals, working on another fancier type of stairs, pics to follow up on the general woodworking page, stay tuned ......
  2. George Smithwick Video (Coopering a Bucket)

    I usually don't watch internet videos for more than a few minutes, but this one is well worth the watch!! Thanks for posting cliff
  3. Best method for a toilet seat?

    I was thinking the bar top stuff also, just needed some second opinions
  4. Years ago I made a maple toilet seat, brushed on about 8 coats of polyurethane, looked great, just clear coated with no stain, within the next year the underside of both the seat and the cover were beginning to turn dark colors and/ black, obviously due to moisture penetration and mold formation. I'm now finishing up our basement, and want/need a rustic hickory toilet seat. Any advice as to what kind of finish to apply. Want just to clear coat it, with no stain. We do run a dehumidifier all summer, just natural evaporation from the toilet bowl caused problems before, help!!
  5. I've been busy!

    Bar stools came a week or so ago, got them assembled. Spent the weekend at the shop and bent apron for the inside radius of the bar (bent it on a 24" radius form) finished the curved television stand, also bent the curved apron under neath the top and bottom shelf, the top and bottom shelf are dadoed into the sides, the middle 2 shelves are adjustable via metal shelf pins. Also got another barn door done which will replace the 2 arched doors that encloses the basement bathroom. Everything needs to be taken to my painter guy, and sprayed with a clear coat, that's why the color variance. Next up is to make another door to replace the dark brown oak door, will make the barn door style, everything is rustic hickory.
  6. I have a Problem with a project

    More than likely, the big wasn't chucked tight enough and slipped out of the collet
  7. Fishing Fun

  8. How it's made part 7

    For those who followed my series, I totally forgot to post pictures of my stairs after it was completely done, sorry guys and gals. A close up of how flawlessly the treads and risers fit into the routed stringers, (see part 5 for pics of the stringers and how it's put together). Yes, there is a kink in the wall rail, due to a run change between the upper 7 treads and the lower 4 treads, (see part 6 as to why). The top of the balusters fit into a hole drilled in the underside of the rail, the bottoms sit in a hole drilled into the tread, epoxy is put into the holes on the treads to keep them from moving and rattling, small pin nails are shot along side of the balusters on the top to keep them from rattling, basically the nails wedge the balusters against the rail. I used small trim screws to secure the left side of the tread to the stinger and placed the screws so that the shoe on the balusters would cover them. Also got the sliding barn doors done that encloses the utility room, and am currently working on the curved bar. Looks like a small bar, but the bar top will overhang by 10-12" which will in effect make it bigger.
  9. How to Start a Fight

    Several years we had a very cold winter, several days in a row of -20 degree temps. I heard on the news if you put water in a cup and toss the water up out of the cup it would vaporize, I decided to try it, and that's when the fight started,,,,, apparently I was supposed to go outside to do this
  10. After my How it's made series

    It's actually a garbage can gene, lots of people think that it's a toilet brush
  11. After my How it's made series

    Does anyone have opinions on a ventless gas insert for the stove, I've read both good and bad things about them, it would only be used when we're down here lounging, and not used to heat the upstairs?
  12. After my How it's made series

    Been busy finishing up the basement family room/bar. When we moved here here 12 years ago, I told my wife, "the basement is mine, the upstairs is yours, I won't tell you how to decorate upstairs and you won't tell me how to do the basement" and we've adhered to that. Since the last time I've posted I have made the 3 built in cabinets, and the barn doors that encloses the utility room and her crafting/sewing room. The basement was unfinished when we moved here, so I took into account the built in cabinets when I framed and drywalled it. I am contemplating putting 1 way glass doors on the cabinets. The circular peice on the floor in one of the pics is the base for the bar, which is the next phase of the project. I still have more Miller signs and lights to put up, not to mention about 15 of the Miller wildlife series of mirrors. The swinging doors with the curves on top are the bathroom. YES I am an old bar rat! but not any more, more fun to stay home and work on this kind of stuff.
  13. How it's made part 6

    Got the newels set, and curved rail hung yesterday, 9 peices 1/4" thick give or take. I put the finger groove on 2 sides of 1" stock and resawed it to 3/8" and ran all 9 peices through the sander so the finished width is 2 1/4", and clamped it to the curved form, (see previous how it's made topics) After letting it dry for a few days I used a paint scraper and belt sander to clean up the top and bottom, then with router put a 1/2" radius on the top. Leaving both newels loose I was able to lay the rail right on the steps and tweak the cuts so they fit nice and tight to the newels. Drilled a 1" hole in the bottom of the rail, and 3/8" hole in the ends. Attached the half newel to the wall, and rail, and bottom newel went in next. 2 washers and a nut secure the rail to the posts. 1" face grain plugs fill the holes no visible fasteners seen on the top of the rail. The bottoms of newel have wraps which hide the screws, still have to put a trim peice on the top of the wraps. The only visible fasteners on this stair are pin nails that are on the newel wrap miters, and trim on the newels, and cove under the tread nosing. I achieved the flair effect on the bottom of the stairs by changing the run. 10" on the right side, 7 1/2" on the left side, (7.47") to be exact. The upper 7 treads have a 9" run. Code says " 12 inches from the narrow side of the stairs the run must not be less than 9", I'm at 9.0625" . Have to seal the curved rail, and wait for the guys to come and put the final coat of finish on these, I don't have the patience for that part of the project, and will post pictures when it's all done and the metal balusters are in. Thanks for reading my series.
  14. How it's made part 5

    Forgot to mention, glue is applied to the 2 sides of the wedges before hammering them home, anyone ever wants to tear this stair out, bring a chain saw!
  15. How it's made part 5

    To answer a few questions that have been asked to me in the past, yes I design and build stairs for a living. The jig for Bending curved stringers was not made specifically for my stairs, it is adjustable for any size radius up to 10' and has been used for 100's of stairs. Here is a picture of the jig used for routing out the stringers and a close up of how the treads and risers get wedged into them, the router bit is called a stair bit, basically a dove tail bit.The jig is adjustable by loosening to two bolts shown with the pencils sticking up, it needs to be adjusted for each stair, do to the different run and rise. A picture of the under side of my stairs, a small bead of glue is applied to the bottom of the riser, the riser is then stapled the the back side of the tread then wedged. The treads get put in and wedged first, then the risers. Glue blocks are then applied to top of the riser, and the under side of the tread. Think about this, in order for the tread to bend, 8" of riser under the tread must bend, and 8"of riser over the tread must bend, not going to happen, that's the reason a center stringer is not needed. I'm currently setting the newel and putting in the curved rail, more episodes to follow.also a pic of the jig used for cutting the wedges, the board is flipped end for end after each cut.

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