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Larry Jenkins

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Everything posted by Larry Jenkins

  1. Neither. Wipe on the stain with a soft cloth or a used, clean nylon sock. After you apply, wipe right away which will show the light spots. Then reapply the stain selectively until the color comes together. Practice on some scraps until you get the method down pat. Larry Jenkins.
  2. As most of you know, White Oak is the preferred wood for outside and moisture environments. I would look for some Rift sawn White Oak and make a set. Then, I would wipe on about 4 coats of thinned exterior grade poly with a used, clean nylon sock. Let cure for about a week, then rub out with 0000 steel wool and TreWax. (Ace Hardware or Amazon.) Larry Jenkins
  3. Computer Aided Drawing. CNC instructions are programmed from existing, approved drawings. Starting points and machining methods on the CNC machine are determined by the programmer. Larry Jenkins
  4. C'mon, Dude.. Tell em about the nylon socks.. Larry Jenkins
  5. Gerald.. Thank yo so much for posting an image of the Chess set you made. I like the variation. Did you hand form the pieces on a lathe? I did mine using hand/eye on my metal lathe. Made two sets for the Grand kids. Larry Jenkins
  6. Somewhere in the bowels of this site, is an article I wrote about finishing. Ask the Dude..(Mr. Dudelson (sp) about nylon socks.. Larry Jenkins
  7. Actually, a work bench is a pretty simple design compared to designing and building cabinets. Way back when I was a lot younger, I did most of my simple designs using the "isometric" principle which is making individual sketches of each part; then making sure everything adds up. Do a search for "workbenches." You will find many images then you can pick one and start drawing. Fun! Larry Jenkins
  8. I design houses now after my attempt at woodworking. Over 60 now. Pantries are very important to the females engaged in buying another home. Most of my designs are walk-in pantries. The smallest being about 5' x 5' with an angled door. A large Pantry also allows a kitchen design to be more open and less hanging cabinets which are not cheap. Larry Jenkins
  9. Thanks to all for the warm welcome back. Means a lot to an old guy who posted here in the past. I will visit the Forums each day, and if I think I can add some flavor to a topic, indulge me.. Larry Jenkins
  10. Larry Jenkins here.. Was one of the new members of John's site many years ago. Fortunate enough to talk someone into letting me add some articles about my woodworking experiences. Rattled some cages back then.. but mellowed down to where I should be at 86. My reason for re-joining is John's encouragement plus the chance I might be able to help someone. Larry
  11. Great attention to detail."Where's there's a will.. there's a way."
  12. What kind of wood did you make them out of? I made a pair for my Son In Law with 3/4" plywood for the tops. I then sprayed three coats of Rustoleum dark green on the tops. Green because he added vinyl decals of the University Of Iowa football field on the tops. I can post images of them if you like. For the undersides and legs, exterior grade latex flat black. Larry
  13. Actually, mine is a two-part Number One. I like to do an initial design in my head first. Then, after agonizing over that until I understand what I want, I'll do a formal design using my Canvas CAD program. (Some of you have seen some of them here..) Then, make it! No prototypes. If you understand the design requirements, why do one? Larry
  14. Thanks, Lew.. You are so right! I didn't get the full effect of that in the images, but know that each initial is separated by 1/2". Larry
  15. A couple winters ago, I made my neighbor and his wife an "initial plaque" because of his help blowing out our driveway all winter. I just made set number four for folks we know, and I thougt I would share some of my crazy design and build techniques for those who may want to venture into abstract things. Here's two images of what I'm talking about. Then I'll describe the steps for your consideration. The first image shows the front side of the initials plaque. All three initial are raised, using a 1/2"diameter x 3/4" long dowel stanchions recessed into the initials using a Forstner bit, 1/16" deep. There are no plans. Ever. I just grab some 1/4" plywood and sketch some initials on it. Three rules. The last name initial is always the biggest. The man's first name initial is always second. And.. The woman's first name initial is always first. (What's new?) Each initial is hand drawn and rough cut out on the bandsaw. Proportions are somewhat important here to ensure a nice looking result. Then, using the proper size Forstner bits, cut each small corner where the initial "curves" meet to ensure a nice smooth arc. Then, using a small diameter drum sander in your drill press, finish sand the piece prior to painting. I use three different colors of latex paint. Colors your choice. Image two shows the backside of the plaque. The top two stanchions have holes in them to hang the plaque on nails. The bottom one on the "C" is a stabilizer with no hole. The bottom, tapered pin on the "S"is another stabilizer. I like to "stagger" the initials using the spacer pin locations to maximize the exposure to each initial. This kind of project will embrace your creative "juices' to the point where you can make just about any design you want. Have fun! Larry
  16. Very nicely done, Sir! Proportions are right on. The rubout looks awesome. Larry
  17. Very nice, Sir! Glad someone else uses Liberon and paste wax on Satin poly. Right, Ron? Larry
  18. Hard Maple? Grade? Larry
  19. Dawg.. Organized confusion at it's best..
  20. Thanks again, Dude.. Seems like you now remember ole Dad. Lacquer is OK, but not for me. Nothing like a hand-rubbed Satin poly finish that's done right. Larry
  21. Sometimes it's great to re-live the past. I recall that night with Ron quite well.. Larry
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